19 Sep 2006
King of tramps is an elusive member of hunting party
It has been three years since a ghost began revealing himself to me on hunting trips, and I'm still not sure what message he means to send from the afterlife. It is clear he has a fondness for hunting dogs or perhaps all dogs of a friendly nature, and he must enjoy the lonely prairies of the Midwest.
He has attached himself to my hunting Labrador, Finn, and I wonder on some days when I'm afield if they share a chuckle when I miss a bird or fall in a badger hole. His name is Tex. He was a real person, as far as I can tell, having carved his name on buildings throughout the Midwest. His vandalism is legendary. In small towns and railroad stations where the vagabond landed, Tex used his penknife to scratch a signature in five letters: "Tex" and "K.T." I'm told the initials stand for "King of the Tramps."
Whether he was really the king of tramps, I don't know. He has never spoken to me about this. His voice is too far, too faint to hear. Sometimes, I think I see him standing along a long-abandoned railroad track in the Dakotas, a satchel slung over his shoulder. This apparition has appeared to me late in the evening each fall, when long shadows cast themselves across the prairie, a cool dampness invades my nostrils and the silhouettes of mallards and wigeons wing across the sky, headed for the roost.
On such nights, I imagine Tex is never in a hurry to catch the next train. He takes a deep breath and listens for birds on the wing. He lingers near the tracks and watches a hunter and dog tiredly retreat from the fields with pheasants or a mallard in a game bag.
INITIAL MEETING Ifirst met Tex in Fulda, Minn. In a stroke of historic pride, the Fulda town fathers never tore down their quaint wood railroad station. Three years ago, I drove into town and found an antiques store operating in the old railroad depot. Stopping to stretch my legs, I was inexplicably drawn into the depot. The owner showed me around, pointing to various sporting antiques — duck decoys, fishing lures — he thought I might be interested in. We stepped outside into a bright October afternoon sun. He pointed to a small square building.
"That's the old privy that has always stood next to the depot,'' he said with admiration for its historic preservation. "You don't see those anymore." Some etching on the side of the outhouse caught my eye. "Looks like someone liked it enough to carve their initials into it,'' I said. I looked closer. "Tex" and "K.T." came into view. "Oh, that was left by some hobo back in the '30s,'' the store owner said. "It seems he traveled a lot in Minnesota, leaving his initials on depots all over."
"What does K.T. stand for?" "King of the Tramps." There was something idiosyncratic about Tex's calling card. Why put quotation marks around them? And how, after all these years, had Tex's legend filtered down to an antiques storeowner in Fulda? The storeowner shrugged off my questions. "I don't know,'' he said simply. Weeks passed. The bird-hunting season was nearing an end. A snowstorm ripped across South Dakota, and once more the dog and I traveled west to hunt pheasants.
We became lost in a cattail slough one afternoon, but shot a limit of three roosters. We slept in a cheap motel, and in the middle of the night, a distant train whistled through the storm. I awoke and saw the dog standing at the door, ears cocked and eyes staring intently as if someone had called her name. Firmly, I told her to lie down. With a great sigh, she eased back onto the floor but still stared at the door.
We finished the pheasant season in Minnesota, killing two roosters near the end of the season on a public hunting area. Winter was settling on the prairie. Returning home, we both knew the season had been a success — sharptails in North Dakota, pheasants in Minnesota and South Dakota and ruffed grouse in northern Minnesota.
PHOTO OP One evening, with the dog curled up at my feet and snow drifting past my office window, I thumbed through pictures from that hunting season. I paused at a snapshot of Finn in North Dakota. I had posed her next to an abandoned building, hoping for a snapshot for the scrapbook. Suddenly, a detail in the photo caused a chill to run up my spine.
The dog stood against the building in bright sunlight. It had been a brisk morning of sharptail hunting, and the dog, after seeing the rough-hewn building in the distance, ran to it as if possessed. I picked the sunny spot to take her picture, framed by big bluestem grasses and the stout logs that had been chiseled into square beams and set to create walls. I stared at the picture. Behind the dog's head were the unmistakable letters "Tex" and "K.T." I studied the carved letters and replayed the trip like a newsreel in my head.
The picture had been taken in central North Dakota, nearly the center of a square mile of empty grasslands. I remembered it was the only building I saw that day. The picture had been taken four weeks before I stopped in Fulda and learned who Tex was. In six consecutive frames, Tex's initials glowed like a beacon over the dog's right shoulder, almost as if Tex's signature indicated ownership over the dog. I looked closer. In the photos, the dog almost seemed to be smiling.
An amazing coincidence, I thought. The string of events had drawn the three of us — Tex, the dog and me — together for some purpose. The odds of "Tex" appearing so brazenly was more than coincidence, I decided. Looking at the photos, it creeped me out. But for the rest of the winter, his initials loomed large in my imagination. A search of the Internet didn't turn up any information on Tex. I tried to recall the ancient log building where I had found his initials in North Dakota. Had railroad tracks once passed there and Tex had sought refuge near the building, just as Finn had been so drawn to it? Or had the building been moved to the field from a nearby small town where Tex passed through?
The answers are elusive. So is Tex. A dead hobo haunts my hunting trips. The ghost has a fondness for a certain black Labrador who sleeps near me every night. He leaves his initials where I can find them, the sly vandal. So, when Finn and I prowl the prairies this fall, I imagine Tex will be along for the ride. Maybe someday he'll have something to say.
For now, I'll look for him in the long shadows of October, a tramp like myself hoping to get out of the cold.
Chris Niskanen can be reached at cniskanen@pioneerpress.com or 651-228-5524.
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